I woke up really early - just before 6am -
and still found that some people had already left. I went and sat outside and Skyped Jeff and we
had a lovely hour chat. One of the guys
at the albergue brought me a coffee which was welcome as it was chilly sitting
outside. This albergue provided
breakfast so had that and hit the track at 8.30. It was still quite chilly. I followed the Camino and bumped into people
that I knew as usual and so the first 12 km took me nearly 2 hours to cover as
I was going at the same pace as the walkers.
It was a long and hot walk for the walkers
on a long straight dirt road and I felt pleased I was on a bike. I met some interesting people on that road
though and I’ve seen a few of them since.
The most fascinating was Imelda from Irelend. She said I could only tell you Mum her age
and that I could put her photo on my blog but not her age so I’ll email you
that – but she was a real treat. She
told me so many lovely stories – lots about love. She had been a primary school teacher and
never married and it’s amazing she is doing the whole Camino! If it get’s too tough at the end of the day
she gets a taxi – but she’s basically walked the whole lot so far. She does tiny steps and just keeps
going. At one point she said in her
lovely Irish accent ‘you know Rachael, I don’t know why I’m telling you all my
most personal stories’ but I loved hearing them.
I met Martin, from Germany, and Hope (the
bear he carries on his backpack) and Martin did half the Camino last year and
is back to do the second half this year. He’s go the Camino shell tattooed on
his leg.
I was walking with Imelda for a couple of
hours and in front was a lovely dad a young girl going about the same pace as
us. I’m not sure if they were doing the
whole Camino as it was enough conversation, with our lack of common language,
to ask them if it was okay that I put their photo on my blog.
I had intended on stopping at a place
called Ledigos for the night and pulled up at the only albergue in that town
about 2pm. It had a pub attached which I
like and I hoped it had a garden. As I
lent my bike against the wall I noticed there were a lot of cigarette butts on
the ground – which had obviously been there for more than one day. It’s common to see Spanish people sweeping
their front area clean so I hoped the inside wasn’t too dirty. Inside the bar it was near impossible to get
the barmaids attention, and their was a terrible soap being played loudly on
the TV and the place looked horrible. I
stuck my head outside (as now the barmaid was on the phone) and there was a
little garden but no shade). Another
pilgrim had entered the bar and we now both waiting for service. The other pilgrim left and I thought ‘what a
good idea’ and left too. I caught up to
her a few minutes later and not knowing if she spoke English or not but said –
“that wasn’t a nice looking place” – and the reply in a thick Irish accent was
“it was shithole”. Her name was Anna so
I cycled beside her for quite a while and we ended up both staying at the same
place that night in a village called Terradillos de los Templarios – and as its
as its name indicates it was the
jurisdiction territory of the Templar Order.
The albergue there was great. For
10 euro you got to have your own single bed – only 2 euro more than a bunk
bed. The meal together was fun and I ate
with some lovely young Russian people. The young woman was very direct and said to me 'if you are married, why is your husband not with you?'
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This Spanish guy was great on the guitar |
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Imelda |
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It was only as I went past Imelda that I saw how old she was so walked with her to the next village |
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It was a long walk from one village to the next - about 13 km I think - and this was the only shade |
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It was great to be in a bed and not in a bunk |
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Dinner time |
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The signs we follow |
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Rest room stop |
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Martin's tattoo of the shell from the Camino |
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Martin and Hope |
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The water fountain |
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This is the top of the water fountain - some are very ornate |
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The yellow ribbon on the side of my pannier is good as it blows out when I'm riding - so I figure it helps the cars to see me makes them take a wider berth |
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Some of the signs to follow are like this |
Hello my friend from Camino kiwi,
ReplyDeleteonly now I have found the piece of paper where you wrote me your email and BLOG. I just got. Reading your blog just now am looking forward to your photos.
Greetings from the other end of the world from Hildesheim, Germany, by Martin