4. Saint Jean Pied de Port to Espinal 8/7/12

Setting off from L'Esprit du Chemin

I only decided to take the Napoleon Route on the day. It had rained heavily during the night and I was worried the path might be muddy - but decided to give it a go. It’s not recommended to take bikes over this route.  Cyclists normally take the road route through the valley – where the highest point is 1100metres.  The Napoleon Route goes to 1427 metres and is on tracks that is more suited for walking on.  So I knew I was in for a tough day of cycling.  And I was – but it was doable and great.  I thought I’d have really sore arms, back and shoulders today as I had to push the bike uphill a lot – but so far so good - although I haven’t moved far.

The scenery on the way was gorgeous. 

The first rest place:  altitude 700 metres

It took two hours to reach the 8km point at Orisson (altitude 800 metres).  Orisson is a hut that people can stay at on the route which I think is a great idea for people who think they can’t manage the whole distance in one day.   I never expected it to have a bar inside though – and especially didn’t expect the owner to be sitting drinking red wine with his buddies and another table of, I’d guess French farmers, all drinking red wine too.  I remember Craig Ewers telling me that he often had a beer at 10am, so even though it was only 9.45 am, I ordered a red wine.  The locals seemed delighted and held their glasses up in the 'cheers' pose.  I took my wine out on the deck to admire the stunning scenery down the valley and had half my baguette from the picnic lunch I’d brought with me.

It was a surreal journey. I love cycling in the mountains when I can do it at my own pace with no time pressure or not worrying that I’m holding people up.  I was on a real high like I’ve been on before walking in the mountains. There’s nothing like that feeling.  It must be caused by endorphins being released in the body – anyway, I like it. 

Pushing my bike up rocky paths was difficult at times.  On the tricky parts, I would just do a couple of metres and stop for a few seconds and then another couple of metres.  A lot of the walkers felt sorry for me as it was much easier walking this path without a bicycle.  Some I’m sure thought I was mad - and I could tell some thought I was plain stupid.  I loved it though.

Just a km before the French/Spanish border a French guy had set himself up a stall selling hot chocolate, coffee, tea and chocolate bars.   It was a beautiful sunny spot looking out over the valley and I knew a few of the walkers who were stopped there – so I stopped to say hi.  The guy selling the drinks asked everyone where they were from and he kept a tally on the side of his van. I was the only NZer so far that day. 

I had a hot chocolate and when I went back to my bike, which I'd lent against a fence post, I saw that the tyre was a bit flat. I wasn’t sure if it had been like this for a while or whether it had just happened - so I tried pumping up the tyre.  I managed to break the pump (the bit you stand on came apart from the rest of the pump - sorry Jeff).  Anyway, they tube didn't seem to be holding air so knew I’d need to change the tyre. 

Off I went back to the flat part where we’d had a drink - and I unloaded, turned the bike upside down, took off the wheel and did all the things Jeff taught me.  I couldn’t find where the hole was in the tube and I couldn’t feel any sharp bits in the tyre – so I went ahead and changed the tube.  

In the meantime, a Korean young man that I’d help with his pack earlier on in the morning, came along and bought me a mars bar and a fruit juice. That was so lovely of him. I tried to say no but he insisted.  I didn’t even know his name.  I’m not sure if the choc bar and drink was because he felt sorry for me pushing my bike up the hills (and even sorrier for me as my bike was upside down and obviously had a problem) or whether it was a thank you for caring when I’d asked him if his pack was comfortable or not (it sure didn’t look comfortable) and then when he said it wasn’t, I spent some time adjusting the straps so that more weight was taken on his hips.

Anyway, after having the chocolate bar and drink with my new friend I returned to the bike to see that the tube had gone down again.  I figured that there must have been still a sharp object in the tyre so I started the process again of taking off the wheel, taking out the tube etc.  I was a bit worried now as I only had one tube left and it was already 1pm and it looked like the weather might be closing in as the sky was getting grey.  It wasn't a place I wanted to be if it started raining like it had the day before.  

Anyway, I had a lot of helpers this time round. The hot chocolate seller and 3 young male trekkers all came and had a feel of my tyre and also couldn’t find any sharp objects so I wondered if it was pilot error that had caused the air to go out of the tube.   Anyway, to cut a long story short, the hot choc seller took over, told me my pump didn’t work, and he miraculously produced a tiny pump that pumped the tube up quickly.  He was very helpful - so I couldn’t tell him that I needed much more air in the tyre.  He was proud of fixing my bike and strode off with a smile on his face telling me that I needed to buy a new pump in Pamplona.  So I put the wheel back on the tyre again and loaded up and set off again.  It wasn't till I had gone a couple more kilometers that I stopped and chanced putting more air in - figuring that if they tube went flat again I could just walk back down the hill to SJPP and go to the bike shop the next day.  Anyway, it seemed to be okay and I continued on my way admiring the beautiful scenery.

I met an Irish couple who both had me in stitches. Michelle says they are first cousins and she calls Tim her houseboy.  Anyway, I nearly wet my pants talking to them so had to go an have a wee behind the virgin statue (which was well ventilated and had magnificent views).  This is Michelle. I met her while she was holding up a big camera and she said to me in her strong Irish accent 'Well who am I meant to be taking a photo of then?'  I had no idea but we made a guess when I spotted a French man posing in the distance in front of the statue.  So she pointed and clicked in that direction, telling me she 'couldn't see a ting trough the lens'. I could not stop laughing so didn't even think to offer to take a second shot. Michelle said she was lying nearly asleep on the grass when a man woke her up and handed her a camera - so by the time she got up she had no idea which man it was.  

This is the houseboy Tim who was playing 'deal ants'. He was so funny.  

There was another funny thing which happened when I stopped at Roland's fountain.  A Japanese man was fiddling with my chain and then said I had a problem and started banging at something which he said, I think, was in the wrong place. An Italian man was helping him by changing the gears and lifting the back wheel up. I'm not sure what was wrong (as I couldn't communicate with either of the Italian or Japanese man very well) but it was lovely of them to help fix it (not that I knew anything was wrong).  After I left the fountain the bottom gears now slip :) but it's okay as I will go to the bike shop when I get to Pamplona. 

Roland's Fountain

The day was amazing and finished with a 4km cruise down an old road to the church above Roncesvalles.   

The path was was easy to find as it's marked along the way with the blue, white and red of the French flag - as in these photos. 

I decided that there were too many people in Roncesvalles so continued on and found a lovely hostal in the village of Espinal. I intended on staying in a single room - but it was 55 euros and the dorm was really lovely and only 10.  It's got a lot of natural light and is clean with comfy beds. 

The bar is great and off the dorm is a place I can use as my office - and there's a big lounge room for the pilgrims and balcony where you can sit outside and watch the walkers pass by.

This is where I am going to write my exit report from (it's 'my office' - just off my dorm room)

This is the balcony off my dorm room that I will not be smoking from ...

...  ditto ...

 ... ditto ...

... ditto ...

A pack of pack-less pilgrims walk pass

I had dinner with some pilgrims last night - and I'm not sure if it was the beer and wine (or a combination of that and us being tired) but it made for a giggly evening.  

Luiza (Austria), Michaela  (Germany) and Kecianne (USA)